Probe thermometers aren’t perfect. One of the first strikes against them comes from the manufacturers themselves, who promote the “set it and forget it” approach—suggesting that once you set the target doneness temperature, you can walk away until the alarm sounds. In our experience, there’s no substitute for checking on roasting meats visually, tactilely, and—as they near doneness—frequently. But the real Achilles’ heel of these instruments is that most of them aren’t intended for roasting in an oven hotter than 392°F. We think this is a major limitation since many of our favorite methods for cooking meat involve high-heat roasting. After putting fourteen probe thermometers through a battery of tests, we found three models to recommend (all of which can be used above 400°F). And despite some quibbles, we’ve concluded that probe thermometers actually help make you a better cook by showing how and at what pace the internal temperature of roasting foods increases. The key is to use these thermometers as tools rather than to rely on them to make judgments for you.